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Spice Rack : Mediterranean delights: Lebanese eatery strikes gold with savory cooking

 

Though Byblos Mediterranean Cafe only opened in downtown Syracuse two years ago, the cafe takes its name from a much older place. 

Named for an ancient Phoenician city founded in about 5000 B.C., the family-run Byblos captures rich flavors with tried and true recipes. It currently reigns as the only authentic Lebanese restaurant in Syracuse. 

When my dining partner and I arrived, I couldn’t believe how tiny the place looked.  Although you can’t miss the expansive black awning out front plastered with the Byblos name, only two tables fit inside in front of the counter.

I liked the intimate feel — you could look past the counter right into the kitchen — but delivery and takeout options provide a more reasonable choice for larger groups.



Luckily, one open table remained when we arrived, so we sat down and perused the menu. Sunlight streamed through the large front window, dancing on our menus. It made me think how nice it would beif we were actually in Lebanon. 

We settled on the spanakopita and a kafta wrap. For those who haven’t feasted on it before, spanakopita is a delicious phyllo pastry stuffed with spinach and feta cheese. My mom’s rendition of the dish is truly amazing, so unbeknownst to Byblos, I awaited the meal feeling certain that its spanakopita didn’t stand a chance of impressing me. 

After ordering and paying at the counter, we waited in our chairs in anticipation.  For the next 35 minutes, we sat chatting comfortably and watched another couple float in to order takeout. Then our food appeared. 

Flanked by a few pickles and wrapped in a fluffy pita, the kafta wrap also included hummus, lettuce, tomato and onions. Mixed with parsley and what tasted like allspice, the kafta meat packed the wrap with seasoned tastiness. Although we opted out of the deal, you could upgrade the dish (regularly $6.50) to deluxe for only $2.95 more and receive a drink and a side — baba ghanuj, rice pilaf or tabbouleh, oh my!

Although the kafta tasted fresh and delicious, the two thick triangles of spanakopita stole the show. The crust, baked to absolute perfection, was so delicate and flaky that I abandoned my knife and fork in favor of just picking it up with my hands to really do it justice. The phyllo crunched with each bite before melting in my mouth, while the warm, soft spinach melted with the feta cheese. Sorry, mom, but you’ve been one-upped. Next time I head to Byblos I might just order multiple servings of spanakopita and call that my entire meal. At only $3.95 each, you can’t go wrong.   

Splitting the wrap and the pastry between two people proved perfect — we both left satisfied but without that sick, overly full feeling. Neither of us ordered anything else, but Byblos has a good reputation for its strong Turkish coffee and sticky sweet baklava for anyone looking for a happy ending to a tasty meal. 

Next time you’re craving Mediterranean food or simply looking for a meal more exotic than anything on Marshall Street, head down for a culinary delight. Or stay in your sweatpants on a lazy Sunday and have the tastes of Lebanon delivered straight to your doorstep. Either way, you’ll be happy you gave Byblos a try.

jidonfro@syr.edu





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